We left behind the heat and dust of the highway, finally beginning our ascent toward the village of Hoang Su Phi.
Located in the remote and captivating Ha Giang province, this region feels both strange and enchanting—a place where time seems to pause. As northern Vietnam gains popularity with travelers, Ha Giang is emerging as a destination. Backpackers loop through their highlights in a few days on motorbikes, while larger tour groups visit during the more forgiving seasons. There are options for every kind of traveler, but luxury and polished services remain scarce. And that’s perfectly fine, it is how it should be.
Hoang Su Phi sits atop a hill, accessible only by a winding, exhilarating road. The 30-kilometer journey from the base to the summit takes you from beneath the clouds to soar above them.
We began our ride on rugged, broken roads, which added a touch of adventure. As we climbed higher, the views transformed. First a glimpse of twisting roads, then sweeping vistas of mountain ranges and vast valleys. The ride was longer than expected, and the constantly changing landscapes surprised us. We had underestimated the thrill of those 30 kilometers, but every moment was worth it.
Upon reaching the village, we were greeted by makeshift houses lining both sides of the road. A few children waved and ran beside our motorbikes, their smiles reflect the humble, easygoing lives led here. The signs of rural poverty were evident, but so were the quiet contentment and warmth of the locals. From the village center, we continued our journey upward on even smaller roads, the ride becoming more spectacular as we climbed. Finally, we arrived at a cluster of bungalows, greeted by the commune’s welcoming sign. Turning around, we took in the breathtaking beauty of the pass we had just traversed. Water buffalo grazed peacefully in the empty fields, marking the end of the harvest season.
That evening, as the sun set, I wandered to the edge of the fields, watching the sun disappear behind the mountain ranges. A soft breeze accompanied its slow descent, bringing with it a sense of tranquility. In that moment, the simplicity and raw beauty of nature transported me to a time before the chaos of modern life. I felt at peace, with the gentle wind cooling the air as darkness settled in. The only sounds were the soft ringing of bells around the necks of the grazing buffalo. It was a precious moment of stillness.
Hoang Su Phi’s community operates as a close-knit group of homestays that cooperate to maintain the land and cultivate crops. The leader, a young woman with remarkable leadership and social skills, organizes the village’s tasks. Her husband, humble and polite, assists her as needed. The villagers, quiet and warm-hearted, made our stay an absolute pleasure.
On our first night, we heard the distant echo of workers hauling farming machinery up the valley. They chanted in their local Dao language, their voices carrying a strong sense of camaraderie. Both men and women worked tirelessly, always with smiles and determination—a clear demonstration of the community’s spirit.
On the second night, the farmers returned with a beehive in tow, which was surprisingly part of our dinner. For many of us, it was our first time tasting larvae along with pieces of hive and honey. We were welcomed as members of the community, sharing in their meal and traditions. The food, as is often the case in Vietnam’s ethnic villages, was exceptional—some of the best I’ve ever had.
Each evening, the village leader joined us, offering locally produced rice wine. In true Vietnamese and ethnic tradition, she toasted with us as a group and with individuals, a mark of respect and hospitality. Her presence was impressive, and she handled her drink better than most of us! Every dinner was lively and fun, and the nights were magical, filled with laughter and starlit skies over this village, seemingly frozen in a better time.
At dawn, we awoke to a sea of clouds beneath us, framed by towering mountains. The sunrise was slow, with the sky’s colors shifting every few minutes as the clouds gradually thinned and the first rays of sunlight pierced through. It was a mesmerizing and unforgettable sight, a perfect end to a peaceful night. Yet, as the sun rose higher, it was time to leave, to explore other corners of this enchanting province.
Hoàng Su Phì is a destination we tour on in our Hà Giang Loop experience.
